Piz Bernina - Binacograt/ Piz Palü
The Bianco Ridge is a great dream of many mountaineers. The firn ridge is also called the "ladder to heaven", as it stretches uniquely up to Piz Bianco. Hurry up, because this firn lollipop also melts with the warming of the kilma!
From Pontresina we reach the Tschiervahütte (with or without a horse-drawn carriage, depending on your mood).
Just behind the hut, the path begins towards Fuorcla Prievlusa and thus to the entrance of the Bianco ridge. At the beginning in firn and shortly before the finish in rock we reach the summit. On the south side of Piz Bernina is the Marco e Rosa hut, where we spend the second night.
On the last day we cross the Piz Palü and reach the Diavolezza, from where we take the train down to the valley.
DETAILED PROGRAMME
Day 1
We meet at the railway station in Pontresina. From there we take a horse-drawn carriage to the Morteratsch Restaurant. Now we start our ascent to our destination for today, the Tschierva hut.
Ascent 600Hm, walking time approx. 2 hours.
Day 2
At 3 am we have breakfast. Afterwards we start in the dark with the headlamp and reach the Tschierva glacier via the narrow and exposed path. From now on we are on the rope the whole day. Up over a steep fin flank or the via ferrata to the Fuorcla Prievlus. On the Fuorcal we can admire a great sunrise. Before reaching the Biancograt, we first have to make some easy climbing. Over the Bianco ridge we climb up to Piz Bianco in about 2 hours. Now the second stage of climbing awaits us up to Piz Bernina with its 4049 metres. The descent is via the normal route, the Spalla ridge to the Marco e Rosa hut.
Ascent 1800Hm, descent 500Hm, walking/climbing time approx. 10 hrs.
Day 3
At sunrise we climb from the Marco e Rosa hut up to the Bellavista terrace to the beginning of the Spinas ridge on Piz Palü, which is mastered by beautiful and easy block climbing. This is followed by the traverse of the three Palü peaks over imposing firn ridges with a descent to Diavolezza through an impressive glacier landscape on the normal route.
Ascent 500Hm, descent 1100Hm, walking/climbing time approx. 7 hours.
excl. mountain railways and possible transports
excl. overnight stay in huts/ half board
Additional costs
2 nights in the hut incl. half board, approx. CHF 80.-/day plus consumption
Carriage ride to Val Roseg approx. CHF 20.- per person (cash only)
Rail journey from the Diavolezza mountain station back to the valley approx. CHF 27.-.
approx. CHF 120.- for mountain guide fees
Offers
Execution on request | » book |